Värmland

Värmland

The name Värmland is believed to have come from an old Swedish name for the Borgvik river, Värma, “the simmering, non freezing”, and the name of the lake Värmeln. During the middle ages Värmland was one of Sweden’s most sparsely populated provinces. Later it became part of Duke Karl’s Duchy and in 1679 he promised freedom from taxes to all who cultivated uninhabited forest areas. Thereby an extensive Finnish migration began to Värmland’s northern parts, the so called finnmarker (“Finn lands”). Meanwhile the mining industry was starting to take stronger hold, and in the beginning of the 19th century the wood trading via Gothenburg also became increasingly important. Since then forestry, sawmills and paper factories have become some of the most important industries in this region.

Cultural and industrial life in Värmland have been greatly influenced by three main rivers that flow through the province from north to south, into the lake Vänern. The open and fertile landscape around this great lake has richly benefited large holdings. Trade has mainly become centralised in the coastal city of Karlstad, that received its town privileges in 1584. The fertile soils of the valley areas have been cultivated and the riches of the forests taken care of by foundry proprietors. Small-scale farmers generally practiced several trades to get by. Culture and communications “have grown in the soil of the valleys, along the flow of the rivers”.

Sparsely situated Finnish farms with smoke houses remind us in the 21st century of Finnish immigration during the 1500s and 1600s. Between the valleys Värmland has mountainous terrain and vast, wild forests. In these, often inaccessible areas, the Finnish immigrants settled. They slash-burned the forest to create small fields, build themselves houses and establish small farms that have provided important contributions to the cultural and industrial life of the province. For centuries the Finns and small-scale farmers had craftsmanship as a means to an alternative income. In solitary “kolarkojor” (charcoal worker huts) handiwork and birch-bark weaving could provide both necessary items for home use as well as goods to sell. This solitary life in charcoal worker huts and forest huts was written about by Dan Andersson, whose melancholy songs are still interpreted by young artists in Sweden, such as Sofia Karlsson.

During the 1600s and 1700s Värmland showed rapid development in the iron industry. From Värmland’s mining districts in the east the works gradually spread further west, all the way to the Norwegian border. As a result of the economic prosperity, country manor houses and estates (“herrgårdar”) became common across the major part of southern and central Värmland. Here a special literary and artistic culture, “herrgårdskultur”, emerged through Selma Lagerlöfs transmission. Close international contacts also brought about new cultural impulses and innovations.

The artistic vein is rich in Värmland. Many great storytellers were born and raised here, such as Selma Lagerlöf and Gustaf Fröding. In modern times the heritage of story telling has been kept alive by writers such as Göran Tunström and Bengt Berg. Around the turn of the century 1899/1900 some artists in Stockholm and Gothenburg were educated and travelled abroad, but were eventually brought back home by the longing for their own home districts. Their impressions and experiences, friends and acquaintances were to bring valuable contributions to art and culture in Värmland. Traditional art-craftsmanship is still very much alive here, not least in the area around Arvika. The work of the individual artisans and craftsmen as well as the more industrialised production at the Klässbol linen weavery, both have their roots deep in folk tradition.

Throughout the 19th century seasonal relocation for work was common. This did not only contribute to economic support, but also to new impressions, inspiration and music. Farms, cottages and smokehouses have been strongholds of local folk music, strongly influenced by Norwegian folk music. Dance and music also have close ties in Värmland. In modern times dance band music, folk music, theatre and art music, art and handicrafts are keywords when trying to describe Värmland. But sport is also important to mention, especially football, ice hockey, skiing and motor sports.

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